New Orleans

People ask me at least once a week what they should put on their NOLA bucket list. It makes me immeasurably happy when people come to town, and even happier when they take their dining itineraries so seriously, so I’ve compiled my list of favorites below.

Po-boys! You can’t come to this city without getting one. Parkway Bakery (Mid-City) is my favorite for surf n’ turf — heaps of fried shrimp with roast beef “debris” (all the tender drippings and gravy). Domilise’s (Uptown), Crabby Jack’s (Jefferson), Parasol’s (Irish Channel), and Guy’s (Uptown) are all good spots for an old-school sandwich; Killer Po-Boys (French Quarter) has some funkier, more unorthodox options.
Rules of physics state that po-boys cannot be consumed without Barq’s in a glass bottle.

People ask a lot about where to get “typical” New Orleans food — red beans, jambalaya, gumbo, etc. Katie’s (Mid-City) is fantastic, with a wide range of whatever foods are on your NOLA must-eat list, and definitely trumps Mandina’s (around the corner and much more hyped). Café Reconcile (Central City) only serves lunch, but the soul food is some of the best around, with incredible prices and a great mission. There’s a trio of Tremé stalwarts — Dooky ChaseLi’l Dizzy’s, and Willie Mae’s Scotch House — that you’ve no doubt already heard about. Dooky Chase has a killer lunch buffet and Willie Mae’s fried chicken has a spicy, thick crust that’s almost toffee-like, earning it a cult following. On the schwankier side is Borgne (CBD), a Besh restaurant with your quota of Gulf seafood and spices; try their $10 lunch special, which changes daily. I really like High Hat Café (Freret) too, though it’s really more “Deep South” than “NOLA Creole” — good fried catfish, soul food-ified vegetables, and pimento that makes an appearance in both grits and mac and cheese.

For seafood, Casamento’s (Uptown) is a super old-school favorite with a raw oyster bar up front. In keeping with the months-ending-in-R rule, they’re only open for part of the year, so check before you go. Superior Seafood (Uptown) is on St. Charles, so you can take the streetcar there, and they’ve got an excellent happy hour with cheap oysters and frozen slushy mojitos and French 75. (I don’t really bother going unless it’s happy hour.)
Peche (Warehouse District), a Donald Link outpost, is beautiful, a place where you can get a massive roasted tuna collar with salsa verde, fish sticks, and fried bread under the same roof. Pascal’s Manale (Uptown) is home to the best barbecue shrimp, which are not barbecued at all but are bathing in tons of butter and spices and wonderfulness that you later sop up with French bread. Drago’s is home to charbroiled oysters, smoky and melty and laden with browned Parmesan. R&O’s (Lakefront) is out of the way, but if you’re looking for a divey seafood shack, it’s well worth your trek.
For crawfish, you want to aim for a generous 4-5 pounds per person; they will all get eaten, and nobody wants to be competing with their tablemates for a puny mud-dwelling crustacean, so be generous. Go-to spots: Clesi’s (Mid-City), Bevi Seafood Co. (Mid-City; Kenner), the aforementioned Superior Seafood, and The Blue Crab (Lakefront), which is RIGHT on the water. Mid-City Yacht Club (Mid-City) and Maple Street Bar (Uptown), and Bayou Beer Garden (Mid-City) — all bars — have crawfish boils on weekends. 

There’s a huge Vietnamese population in NOLA, and my favorite bowl of pho is at Lilly’s (Lower Garden District). The beef broth tastes like a grandmother made it, but the chicken pho is really where it’s at, with fried shallots aplenty. Magasin (Uptown) is a fantastic standby if that’s your neck of the woods, and they recently opened Magasin Kitchen (Warehouse District). Mopho (Mid-City) is on the funkier end of the spectrum; don’t miss the sticky wings, which are the kind of delicious that you get all over your face in your urgency to devour it, or the Saturday pig roasts.
If you’re in the market for a long trek, Dong Phuong Bakery (New Orleans East) really carries the torch with their banh mi sandwiches, which are something like $2 or $3 and on pistolettes that they bake themselves. (In a strange reverse cultural diffusion of sorts, some po-boy shops in NOLA buy the French bread from here.) Get the chargrilled pork and don’t be shy with the mayo.

Beignets deserve their own paragraph. Café du Monde (French Quarter) is in the middle of everything, right on Jackson Square, open 24/7; it’s very good whether you’re going for breakfast or late-night snacks. You probably already knew all this. If you’re there, head to the take-out counter in the back to place your order, since that’s where they’re freshest. But my favorite place is Morning Call (Mid-City), which occupies a beautiful old building right in the middle of City Park. Their beignets are more tender and delicately golden (and usually more fresh), and you eat them among beautiful old oaks. Eat with café au lait and smother with powdered sugar.

Phenomenal sandwiches can be found at St. James Cheese Company (Uptown), along with big, lovely salads, ploughman’s lunches, and cheese boards. The owners used to purvey cheese to the Queen of England before they realized NOLA is the best place in the world. I always want to order everything on the menu and get FOMO when I go. Stein’s (Garden District) is our resident Jewish deli, with killer rye, pastrami, and bagels and a beer nerd-level beer selection. Wayfare (Freret) kills the sandwich game, too, with souped-up, tricked-out, amply condimented options and a good enough drink menu that you can make a night of it.
You might’ve heard of Cochon, a James Beard-winning restaurant with Cajun food on white tableclothed-tables. I prefer Cochon Butcher (Warehouse District), which is just around the corner. Same team, same kind of food, but to the tune of $10 sandwiches — buckboard bacon melts with cheese and stewed collards, Cubanos, and otherworldly peanut butter pie.
Muffalettas are GIGANTIC sandwiches indigenous to New Orleans, many thanks to the Sicilian population. Layers of mortadella, salami, ham, provolone, mozzarella, and olive salad (imagine chopped good olives with crunchy veg in an herb-y vinaigrette) on a sesame loaf. Get yours at Verti Marte or Central Grocery (both French Quarter). Once, in a drunken haze, I went to Verti Marte and the muffalettas were sold out, so I pinch-hit with Ernie’s Power Play, which features pulled pork, shrimp, olive salad, and melty pepper Jack; I did not regret a thing.


A couple other miscellaneous sandwich-like thingsCompany Burger (Freret) is my favorite burger in the world, with the greasiness and humbleness of a Shake Shack or In ‘n’ Out Burger but the attention to ingredients (the meat is excellent, and they only offer tomato slices in season) of a cheffier joint. I’m not saying that I’ve asked for my ashes to be sprinkled there when I die, but it’s not outside the realm of possibility, either. Pro tip: It is also THE BEST spot for a first date, which might surprise you at first, but I am happy to discuss this with you after class; you will soon see the light.
Dat Dog is a hot dog joint (locations in Marigny, Garden District, Freret) where you pick your sausage — from the likes of alligator, crawfish, turducken, or the more standard pork options — and then your toppings. I let them take the wheel on toppings. They get creative and will pile on anything from crawfish étouffée to guacamole as they see fit.


Sugar: I have a sweet tooth! It’s true. Sometimes you just need a little sugar to balance out all the good dinners you’re having. If you are in NOLA during snowball season and don’t go to Hansen’s (Uptown), you are not allowed to talk to me seriously about your NOLA eating adventures. Their snowballs — like shaved ice/snowcones, but with actually good, non-saccharin, from-scratch flavors like satsuma, ginger, and nectar cream — are made from a patented machine that makes ice as fluffy as fresh snow. Also good snowballs in the Bywater at Piety Street Snoballs. Uptown, people like Plum Street Snoballs, particularly the orchid cream flavor, which sounds weird, but … trust me.
My favorite bakery in town is Gracious (Mid-City); I can’t walk out without a stockpile of treats like salted caramel croissants, oozy chocolate tarts, and flourless chocolate raspberry cake, and their iced coffee is one of my favorites in town.  Willa Jean (Warehouse District) is a close second, with chocolate-espresso cookies, towering cornmeal muffins, spicy garlic-cheddar baguette rolls, and all manner of croissants. Manhattanjack (Uptown) is, most notably, the spot for buttermilk drops, which are like little tangy cake doughnuts with crisp crusts and generous glaze. Sucré (Garden District) and Salon by Sucré (French Quarter) have playful, sometimes-too-pretty-to-eat things — French macarons, dessert pastries, and chocolate truffles that were the subject of my high school college admission essay.

You can find phenomenal coffee at the following places; no coincidence that they’re also good spots for hipster-watching: Hivolt (Lower Garden District), Church Alley Coffee Bar (Central City), Revelator (Warehouse District), Pulp and Grind (Warehouse District), The Orange Couch (Marigny), Spitfire (French Quarter), and Cherry Espresso Bar (Uptown). One of my absolute favorites, if you’re up for a Bywater excursion, is Sólo Espresso, which is super-affordable, particularly in light of the quality, and often features weekend pop-ups with croissants and biscuits. And French Truck (Lower Garden District) isn’t so hipster-y but has the best NOLA-style iced coffee on the planet, perfect for sticking in your bike’s cup holder and taking on a joyride.
The aforementioned District has a tiny adorable outpost (Uptown) with hand pies and fantastic coffee. My favorite is the Vietnamese Snowball, which is strong coffee, chicory-infused milk, and condensed milk poured over crushed ice. I’ve projected a rivalry (real? imagined?) between District’s Uptown location and Hivolt’s outpost one block away, Hivolt Bakery, which has the same incredible muffins, easy breakfast options, and stellar coffee program.

Brunch. OK. You’re hungover. You want something tasty to bring you back to life. I’m very very very into Pagoda Café (Mid-City), which slings delicious caffeinated things as well as delightful breakfast tacos, non-sad salads, kale and feta turnovers, and such. Patois (Uptown) has fried rabbit and gumbo. Elizabeth’s (Bywater) has praline bacon and other good NOLA staples like grillades and grits, bananas Foster french toast, and Bloody Mary. The aforementioned Willa Jean has buttery biscuits, fantastic coffee, avocado toast, eggs in purgatory … just call ahead and try to make a reservation since they get slammed. Dante’s Kitchen (Uptown) has some of the best grits with red-eye gravy to cure what ails you. All these recommendations aside, my two absolute favorite places to go for breakfast are more casual and not as definitively, decadently NOLA: Satsuma (Bywater, Uptown) has good juices and a Green Eggs & Ham sandwich that I can’t get enough of. And Toast (Uptown) has gigantic crepes, tartines (smoked salmon, cream cheese, and scrambled egg! prosciutto, ricotta, and honey!), and the like.

If you’re looking for a nicer sit-down restaurant, a few personal favorites — check out their menus and just see what calls to you — are Coquette (Garden District), Patois (Uptown), Kenton’s (Uptown), Mariza (Bywater), Peche (Warehouse District), Lilette (Uptown), Primitivo (Central City), Gautreau’s (Uptown), and Bayona (French Quarter). Cavan (Uptown) is new and divine, and you can string together a really fabulous meal from their toasts, small plates, and sides for a totally reasonable price; whatever you do, DO NOT MISS the hush puppies with whipped honey lardo. Compère Lapin (Warehouse District) and Doris Metropolitan (French Quarter) are also supposed to be fabulous but I’ve never been.
Shaya (Uptown) has thoughtful, innovative yet deeply personal Israeli food, and you will love every bite, and you will never want the piping-hot pita to stop coming until you need to be rolled out of there. Reservations can be tricky because EVERYONE (even, literally, grandmas) is hip to the spot, but the tables in the back patio are first-come, first-served. The absolute best value white-tablecloth dinner you’ll find is at Boucherie (Uptown) — the food has global influences but is executed in a very Southern way, and none of the (large, fabulous) entrées exceeds $18 or so. Brown Butter (Mid-City) is similar, more casual.

You didn’t come to this city for pizza, but a craving’s a craving, and there’s SO MUCH fabulous pizza to be had here. Domenica (Downtown) is an upscale but low-key Italian restaurant with a really broad menu — think whole roasted cauliflower, tender and charred and served with tangy whipped goat cheese, and beautiful wood-fired pies with good-quality toppings. You can’t go wrong. It has a more casual counter-service outpost uptown, Pizza Domenica, where there’s a lot of menu crossover along with the world’s greatest garlic knots (seriously, please don’t leave without trying them). Ancora (Uptown) has similarly sublime Neapolitan pizza, plus meatballs and crispy-chewy arancini, both served on puddles of tangy red sauce. And if you’re in the Bywater, Pizza Delicious makes spectacular, thin-crust NY-style slices; something about the counter service makes it a pleasant surprise when you find that the pizza itself is just, objectively, some of the best you’ve ever had.

A couple other spots that don’t really have categories but merit a mention in case they’re up your alley:

  • Mais Arepas (Central City), one of my favorite places to be, with fresh fruit mojitos and margs, unbelievable Colombian arepas piled high with every topping you can imagine, and charred grilled corn on the cob with this buttery mayo-y sauce that you will GUARANTEED try to eat with a spoon when the corn is gone.
  • The Joint (Bywater), which makes my favorite barbecue and a can’t-miss peanut butter pie
  • Red’s Chinese (Bywater), which is weird hipster Asian “fusion” (but that’s a dirty word so don’t breathe it aloud on the premises). It’s served family-style, so don’t go with vegetarians)
  • 1000 Figs (Mid-City), a charming, hole-in-the-wall spot with the best falafel you will ever have. So good I want to use a gigantic one as a sleeping bag
  • Roux Carré (Central City), a pop-up hub/incubator with Jamaican, Cajun, pork, and pupusa offerings and all outdoor (but covered) seating.

I probably don’t need to tell you that much about drinks but I’ll do it anyway to make sure you don’t spend all your nights on Bourbon Street. Go to Bourbon if you must cross it off your bucket list—I’m not one to judge; like Times Square, everyone should see it once and then never, ever go back—but then walk down to Frenchmen Street (Marigny; a street, not an actual bar), which has better music, better bars, and less puke on the street. It’s still pretty much a tourist scene, but an enjoyable one. Not too far from that is an intersection on St. Claude Avenue (Marigny) with a handful of dive bars (Hi-HoAllWays, Siberia, Kajun’s) — investigate for live music, comedy, karaoke, and such. Just up the street is New Movement, a comedy theater that’s one of my favorite places to spend a weekend evening. It is consistently just a very, very fun time.

Bacchanal (Bywater) is, atmospherically, maybe the best place to have a drink — you buy your wine in the store up front, then take it to the big, lazy backyard with you and listen to live music among the fairy lights. They also have really good food, if hunger hits. I’m wild about Barrel Proof (Lower Garden District) and Bar Tonique (French Quarter) for drinks made by people who know their shit but aren’t making a huge deal about it. Go to the former for whiskey and the latter for old-school cocktails and speakeasy vibes ($5 Moscow Mules on Wednesdays!). The Columns (Uptown) is a big old mansion on St. Charles; you can have your drink on the front porch, people-watch, and bask in the Southernness of it all, especially during debutante/Mardi Gras season, when tuxedoed and evening gowned folks roll in post-ball. Delachaise (Uptown) is just down the street and ideal for Dark and Stormy since they make their own ginger beer; get the goose-fat fries while you’re at it.

Some of my favorite no-frills neighborhood bars: Bayou Beer Garden (Mid-City) and sister spot Bayou Wine Garden next door, which have phenomenal selection, excellent food, reasonable prices, and TONS of back patio space to kick back; I’m lucky to call them my neighbor. Also: Twelve Mile Limit (Mid-City), get a Baudin; Mid-City Yacht Club (Mid-City), which is neither a club nor anywhere near water/yachts and has a big backyard where you can post up; Finn McCool’s (Mid-City), a textbook Irish pub with everything you’d want from said genre and a great late-night scene; St. Joe’s (Uptown), which has a cozy little back patio; Other Bar (Uptown), with a sweet line-up of boilermakers and solid, affordable cocktails, plus free skeeball. Just down Freret Street from Other Bar is Publiq House, which has a wall full of (good) daiquiri machines, live music, and crawfish boils during the spring. NOLA Brewery (Irish Channel) has a casual downstairs, a big second floor that can be open air when the weather’s nice, and they serve McClure’s Barbecue, some of the best in the city.

If you want to see pretty things, you are in luck because New Orleans is a fucking beautiful city. City Park Sculpture Garden (Mid-City) is free, lovely, with big ol’ oak trees scattered amongst the actual art; it’s near the New Orleans Museum of Art, which is not free but still great. If nature is what you want, Bayou St. John (Mid-City) is still in the city proper, and you can kayak/canoe!; Jean Lafitte National Park is more out of the way, but it has swamps, Spanish moss, cypress trees with knobby knees, etc. etc. Actually, the whole of City Park (Mid-City) and Audubon Park (Uptown) are both really nice places to explore, lie in the grass, ogle trees, go for a run, picnic, daydrink, whatever it is you’re looking to do al fresco. For a tiny adventure, take a ferry to Algiers Point (West Bank); there’s live music on the point every Wednesday night during the warmer months. And speaking of live music, Lafayette Square (Downtown) also has it (Google “Wednesdays at the Square”).

Also? Do not pay for a cemetery tour. Just don’t. There are plenty of places with scenic, Instagram-friendly above-ground tombs that you can explore without paying to be surrounded by dead people.

5 thoughts on “New Orleans

  1. Your blog is great! I am looking for a place that serves fresh fish not fried preferably grilled. Any ideas? E

    1. Hey Elaine! Not sure of your price range — it’s easy to find cheap, tasty fried seafood, but grilled is typically a little different — typically, you get what you pay for. Some of the places that do amazing fried seafood will also do it grilled, but I can’t vouch for how good it’d be. On the upscale side, Peche and Seaworthy can’t be beat. Also check Borgne, although I’m not wild about their atmosphere (in a hotel). For something more casual, check Bevi’s and Katie’s and see if they’d have something you’d like.

    1. Hi Carolyn! Early June, it’ll for sure be hot, but much more tolerable than later in the summer. It depends on what you most like to do when you travel. If you’re big into walking and/or outdoorsy stuff, you’d ideally plan a trip anytime October through mid-May. Early June is absolutely fine for any of those things but it’s certainly not balmy if you’re used to crisper temps. And if you like to hang out, shop, eat, drink, hear music, etc… early June is great!

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